Cutting (SPI)

Cutting and drilling the wood pieces to size requires some basic wood-shop tools, such as a cross-cut saw, hand-drill or drill press, and router or jig saw.  The four sides of the enclosure are contructed from 5-1/2″ x 1/4″ oak project boards.  Start with cutting 2 of these boards to length of 22-3/4″ and 2 boards to length of 23-1/4″.

Piece “A”, the Back of the enclosure (when the xylophone is resting horizontally on a table), is 23-1/4″ long.  Holes are drilled as shown below:

  • 1/2″ diameter for the On/Off Toggle Switch
  • 3/8″ diameter for the DC Barrel Jack
  • Two 3/16″ diameter holes, 5″ apart, for the Handle

Box Piece A

Piece “B”, the Right side of the enclosure, is 22-3/4″ long, and has a 7/8″ x 9/16″ rectangular hole for the USB Panel Mount.  It also has 3/32″ holes on either side for the screws to secure the Panel Mount.  See the Jigs page for how to cut the rectangular hole.

Piece B - Right

Box Piece B Detail

Piece “C”, the Front of the enclosure, is 23-1/4″ long and had no holes drilled.

Box Piece C

Piece “D”, the Left side of the enclosure, is 22-3/4″ long and had no holes drilled.

Piece D - Left

The Top and Bottom of the enclosure are cut from 1/4″ thick oak venier plywood.  Start with a 2 ft x 4 ft plywood sheet and cut it into two squares, each one 22-3/4″ x 22-3/4″.  Actually, I recommend cutting the sides of the Top and Bottom about 1/16″ to 1/8″ shorter than 22-3/4″, just so that it will fit without forcing.

Piece “E” – the Top, needs to have the following holes dilled:

  • 19-3/4″ x 10-3/4″ for the window
  • 1-19/32″ x 3-27/32″ for 20×4 Character LCD
  • 5/8″ diameter hole for Rotary Encoder
  • 3/32″ diameter holes, with countersink, 1/4″ from edge.  Drill 3 of these holes on each side (total of 12).  These will be used to secure the Top to the rest of the enclosure.

Again, see the Jigs page for how to cut the rectangular holes.

Box Piece E

Box Piece E Detail

Piece “F” – the Bottom is the same size as the top, and has the same 3/32″ holes along the four sides.

Box Piece F

Note that using a countersink with the holes on the edge will allow a flat-head screw to be flush with the surface.

Pieces “G”, “H”, and “J” are cut from 1/2″ square dowels.  Cut 8 of the “G” piece, each 21-1/2″ long, cut 4 of the “H” piece, each 4-1/4″ long, and cut 2 of the “J” piece, each 2-1/4″ long.

Box Pieces G H J

Pieces “K”, the two Runners are cut from the 1-1/4″ strip of plywood that is left over from cutting pieces “E” and “F”, the Top and Bottom of the enclosure.  They pieces don’t have to be exactly 1-1/4″ wide.  Anything between 1″ and 1-1/2″ will work.  Cut 2 of the “K” piece, each one 18-3/4″ long.

Runner Piece K

Piece “L” is the mount for the Rotary Encoder.  It is a 1-1/2″ square piece cut from the 1/2″ x 1-1/2″ project board.  Drill a 1/4″ diameter hole in the center of this piece.  The KY-040 Rotary Encoder is secured by screwing it into the hole.

Piece L

Piece “M”, the Window of the enclosure is made from a clear acrylic sheet, approximately 1/4″ thick.  In this example, I used a the OPTIX 0.22-in x 18-in x 24-in Clear Acrylic Sheet from Lowes.  This needs to be cut to a size 21-5/8″ x 11-3/4″.  Drill a 20 mm hole near two of the corners as shown below.  The holes are for the 3/4″ Closet Door Finger Pulls.  I learned the hard way that the hole needs to be 20mm, not 3/4″.  20mm is just slightly larger than 3/4″.  The Finger Pulls will not fit in the 3/4″ hole, and if you try to hammer it in, the acrylic sheet will crack.

Piece M Window

Next: Gluing